패브릭 신소재 번역(영어 번역본)Fabric Show Multi Facet For the materials of this season, we need to express them in a clear and unbiased manner from various perspectives to meet various demands and concepts. Especially, following F/W season, cozy and gentle feel and various surface impressions come to the fore and in terms of technique, we need to pay attention to cosmetic functionality to improve skin health. Artistic expression has never been intense and a dramatic newness is created by conflicting mix-matching between ground materials and decorative elements. Natural fiber suggests comfortable touch with a soft sense of volume and thin filament yarn is blended with synthetic nylon to meet functional aspects. Materials of a handicraft sensation are suggested sophisticatedly through extraneous combination with synthetic materials. As the demands for season-less material expand, materials of comfy touch are suggested in S/S season, too. Not only the touch of materials, but also the texture of appearance should be more abundant. Breaking from classic uniqueness of materials, attempts by new approach through cooperation with various styles are actively made. Fabric Issue Fabrics for Clinical & Cosmetic Following high-tech materials for active performance, materials that improve medical or cosmetic functions have recently been developed. Mitsubishi Rayon launched H6 Series, acrylic-blended yarn which is beneficial to the skin. They developed new yarn by which wearable materials can be made by supplementing peeling function, one of the weak points of acryl, and integrating deodorization function through new technology. Corebrid developed the world’s first wet acrylic fiber. Fiber is divided into lead and integument to deliver various functions. This technology improves not only durability but also performance and enables the changes of touch such as dimorphism of a cross section. Tamicare of the U.K. developed Cosyflex®, polymeric natural fabric created by combining latex, natural rubber, and cotton. It is a nature friendly material of biodegradation and water-proof function. It can be made using a 3D printing system spray gun, and is to be used in compress and mask sheet and available in market next year. Firming Bra, lingerie made of new materials containing cosmetic ingredient, is a product of new concept which cosmetic function is integrated into lingerie using A-more, special fabric containing active enzyme which keeps skin elasticity and moisture in a form of capsule. Alternative Silk While silk and silk-blended materials are spotlighted by their luxurious look and soft touch, there are new materials attracting public attention the possible substitute for silk. Banana Silk which is made of banana plants has recently been launched as alternative silk. The yarn is so thin and exquisite that it can express the look of silk well. The manufacturing process is similar to that for materials made of bamboo or linen, so it can be used for not only clothing but also interior materials. Biosteel®, artificial web silk, is another alternative silk and to be actively applied to the market from 2014. Being made by genetic engineering technology, Biosteel® has luster similar to real silk and thanks to high tension strength and elasticity, it will be used in various fields from safety appliances such as body-armor to fashion materials. It has been developed to extract yarn by gene manipulation of the secretor of honeybee. Silk made by this method is so light and durable that it will be spotlighted as a material for sport wear and developed for aviation or the ocean. Extending Their Realm With advancement of material development technology, changes of appearance or method of use of materials have been evolved into application in various realms. Komatsu Seiren developed a method to embody post-processing effect in various materials through digital print. It uses post-processing methods that create the look of leather in taffetas, give pearl luster in linen or produce the effect of cotton in polyester with print. Materials companies which are concentrating their efforts on using jersey are focusing their energy on developing jersey available for tailoring. Gruppo Dondi, a jersey company based on Italy, suggested materials of not two-dimensional such as ponte of cubic effect, light, single jersey and reversible double jersey. Fabric Changing Point Materials: Forward New Direction In this season, such materials that have a light sense of form and soft touch and can bring about comfortable silhouette and wearing sensation are suggested. Cellulose Blend: While it was important to blend cellulose in last season, this season uses cellulose as the main element and blends it with cotton, nylon and linen, which spotlighting the strong points of cellulose fiber such as excellent drapability, luxurious ouch and skin friendliness. Denim by PV also suggested botanical denim which blends cellulose materials such as tencel and indigo cotton as a key trend. Updated Spongy Fabric: In this season, sponge materials have been developed lighter, thinner, softer and suppler. As materials of sponge touch for soft shape, double fabrics such as pique, mesh, and twill and bonding materials are used for neoprene of sticky surface sensation. The realm will be extended from casual jacket and t-shirt to suit of formal wear. Innovative Synthetic: Formerly, functionality for improving performance was spotlighted. But today, functional materials focusing on clinic or cosmetic ingredient are suggested. Celliant® is mineral fiber which contains powder which is finer than human hair by one hundred times in the center and reuses human energy. Cosmetic materials have not only the existing deodorization function but also remove cellulite using caffeine and provide moisturizing or anti-aging function. Yarns: Underlined Texture Yarns for this season are actively used to express various surface impressions. By using the changes of density through adjusting twisted strings or delicate plastic and vinyl yarns which were rarely used in the past, new effects are created. Fragile Crepe Yarn: In particular, a sense of see-through is spotlighted. It is important to express texture of transparent and fragile hard-twisted yarn by using silk, viscose and cotton of fined spun yarn. Filament Fine Yarn: Maximize transparency by blending silky filament yarns and functional nylon. Natural slub or surface impression can be made through gauze structure. Fancy Yarn Mixed Weaving: Various yarns are suggested including industrial materials such as plastic jelly and rubber yarns, novelty chenille, tapes and lace yarns. In particular, with addition of fancy elements, use silk lustrous yarns and metallic yarns actively in weaving which is suggestive of raffia weaving such as heavy twill and basket canvas. Structure: Alteration for Individuality Weaving methods which can maximize the characteristics of materials through the moderate and delicate changes of weaving are suggested. Precise Dobby: Embody micro-texture through structure such as dobby and oxford of more delicate and tonal coloring and make exquisite high-quality dobby fabric. Dense Jersey: Phenomena that the boundaries of knit, jersey and woven become faint are noticeable. Compact, synthetic jersey is mainly used and knit develops more diversely. High-density knit of synthetic base which can express supple and round silhouette stands out. Updated Basket Weave: Basket weave of this season is suggestive of a rug with flat and simple weaving. Express contemporary ethnic of a cool sensation by actively using monochrome contrast of simple black and white and mixing vinyl yarns or using rubber coating. Aspect: Fabric Manipulation Appearance which has a living, three-dimensional effect with surface impression is emphasized by using various methods. Intense Reliefs: Mitigate a cubic effect of 3D texture with a sense of relief by performing piece dyeing to make it in one tone or giving it a tone-on-tone effect. Various forms are suggested from small dots to reinterpreted geometry. Rippled Surface: Amidst continued popularity of seersucker, one of the representative summer suiting materials, cloque of nuance between seersucker and thin quilting is newly rising. Either emphasize nice soft surface impression or develop based on geometric motifs. Artistic Fringe: Various appearances of craftsmanship from techno-fringe to artistic and creative appliqué are suggested. Touch of unfinished looking and irregular motifs produce delicate touch as if it has been created by a master. Handle: Emphasized Tactile Materials of various senses of touch such as soft, downy and crispy sense of touch that tactile sensation is emphasized are suggested. Soft & Suppleness: Compact and elastic materials of soft sense of touch with flexibility maximized by soft treatment and blending are spotlighted. Seasonless Comfy: With seasonless trend, materials looking downy including light wool are spotlighted. Surface impression is expressed not only by summer wool but also terry or looped yarns or post-processing of brush or peeling. Light & Crispy: A thin, dried, cool and crispy sense of touch is produced by mixing light, delicate plastic or vinyl yarns or film processing. Finishing: Add something is too cool Post-processing of new methods which emphasize concepts distinguished from the existing decorative methods is spotlighted. Smart Finishing Shield: Smart treatment can be made by not special technique but the nature of materials. The functional aspects of the material can be obtained by bonding or attachment, not coating or infiltration of liquid. The manufacturing process of garment becomes smart through technique which attaches seams using heat. Be Stained: Natural dusty bleaching is applied to pre-dyed materials for expression of new feeling. Yarns of different components are weaved and upon bleaching, only yarns chemically selected are bleached. Color-shade Pleats: Not cutting but delicate pleats and folding techniques are spotlighted in this season. Maximize a flexible sense of volume through ombre mix of color shade. |